Casablanca

View from our hotel window



It is 8.30 am and we are sitting in the hotel waiting for our pick up to the airport at 10.00am. We have found Casablanca to be an amazing city, full of different people and cultures. The architecture has been heavily influenced by the French, but there is also a very modern city that could place you any where in the world.





The highlight would have to be the Hassan 11 Mosque, I think the most beautiful building I have ever seen. We were lucky enough to be swept up by a Taxi driver from the station on the previous day who offered to take us on a tour of the city. With only one day left to go we took him up on his offer and we had such a wonderful time looking at all the sites. From the Mosque we went along the beach front, full of surf clubs where you paid entry fees for access to swimming pools and restaurants. Unfortunately, we had difficulty in seeing the sea as there was such a strong sea mist.





The tour took us through the expensive suburbs of Casablanca, beautiful luxury homes, modern and lush gardens. We also passed palaces belonging to the King of Morocco and the King of Saudia Arabia. Huge compounds surrounded by tall walls, and very closely guarded.




Of course, going with a taxi driver, you are dragged off to visit his friend's shop, this was an old pharmacy, more argon oil, and a rub down for Ross! Off we went to the carpet shop and we just had to say no!



A visit to the medina, nothing like Marrakech and Fez but still impressive. So much colour and pattern in all the handicrafts, just so beautiful.



After the end of the tour we went for a wander around the streets near the hotel. We stumbled into an arcade of shops selling material for furnishings. Beautiful rich colours, heavy embroidery so ornate, amazing to look at all the colours of the rainbows!



Another little arcade and there we were surrounded by dried fruits and nuts. Tummies still not quite right to indulge, but very tempting.

Not long to go now before we have to checkout of our room and head to the airport. We have had such a wonderful time but now looking forward to coming home and catching up with all our family and friends. And as for our dog, last message from Chris the babysitter, Bonnie and I have bonded so she maybe rather aloof when we return!!!! We hope she will remember us!! See you all soon!!!

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Marrakech

Unbelievably hot!!!! What an amazing city, beautiful, noisy, colourful and so much to see! Our guide, Abdou, Bruce and Gayle's hiking guide was lots of fun. We experienced the beauty of the city, lush green gardens contrasted against the salmon pink buildings. The main square was a riot of noise and action, from the rows of orange juice sellers, the snake charmers and then the souks with masses of handicrafts.



Our Riad in Marrakech was lovely, we were the only ones staying there. Each day when we returned, we really appreciated the air conditioner, it was so hot outside, each morning we were served delicious fresh orange juice, coffee and toast. Friendly staff, but with no English and our poor French, we were not able to communicate well.


The main square at night, busy, noisy and very colourful.


Part of the five days with Abdou was a trip to Imlil, up in the high Atlas mountains where we stayed overnight. The trip up into the Atlas Mountains was extraordinary, with long winding road, through barren mountains with the occasional lush oasis to break up the landscape. We stayed in a gite with a local family, their terrace had a magnificent view of the mountains.



View from the terrace


The next morning we went for a walk up through the village and a track to the river, waterfall and swimming hole. Perched on top of the rocks was a cafe, serving orange juice and tanjine. Very resourceful people to drag up all their supplies through very rough terrain, helped always by the obligatory donkey!


We returned home this day exhausted, the heat was unbearable, it was a rush to the Riad, bottle of coke to settle the stomach and a very early night!

The next day it was a trip out to Ourika Valley, a less challenging drive as not so mountainous as the previous day. First stop at an Argon oil cooperative where we watched the nuts being processed. Mint tea in a private room with a girl explaining to us all the health benefits of the oil. Interesting visit, with us ending up buying a few magical products!



The fruit stands are beautiful, full range of colour and different fruits. At the end of each meal, a large platter of fruit arrives at the table. All so very fresh and full of flavour, delicious!



The valley was such a relief from the heat of Marrakech. It was a Saturday so it was very crowded. Cafes lined the river, with tables and chairs actually set up in the river so that you could eat in comfort with cold refreshing water on your feet. We enjoyed a delicious salad and tanjine with a large fruit bowl to follow. It was lovely to paddle in the river, finally enjoying an escape from the heat.



The traffic was impossible, total traffic jam, so we just had to give up and go and have another cool drink by the river as our poor taxi driver had to try and manoeuvre his car out of the mess!




The camel ride, I suppose every tourist has to! Maybe the 2 minute ride was enough for me, but at least I can say now that I have finally ridden a camel!



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The wedding

How do you start to describe Phoebe and Karim's wedding, it will be impossible! From the 6 different outfits Phoebe wore, to the music, Berber and modern Moroccan music and then all the traditions. Phoebe carried into the reception centre in different carriages, Karim riding a horse. And then the reception centre, ornate and colourful, with large Moroccan sofas to lounge on that were covered in very elaborate brocade. It was colour and sound overload, from leaving the Riad at 1.30 in the afternoon and not returning home till after midnight it certainly was a wedding to remember. Even though the wedding had many ancient traditions, modern technology also played it's part. Camera men, still camera and movie with all the lights and action, when they were not filming, large TV screens were placed around the venue and we were able to enjoy the photos.







This is my favourite dress, Phoebe was carried into the reception centre, followed soon after by Karim on his horse! Phoebe's jewellery was incredibly ornate and changed each time to match the next outfit. Her makeup was dramatic but not over the top which was her fear.




Ross purchased his outfit, with a Fez hat too but was not allowed to wear it at the wedding as he would look too much like a tourist. My outfit was hired, very beautiful, 2 layers with gold brocade but incredibly hot, prickly and very uncomfortable. Many ladies changed their outfits throughout the night into more colourful and glamorous gowns, I was just glad to get back to my normal clothes at the end of the evening.










Final photo of the evening taken outside the King's palace with Phoebe in a traditional bridal dress.
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Our Moroccan Riad

This Riad has been the most wonderful experience, we are the first guests here, they are nearly ready to open for business and we have been the first to enjoy the beauty of this place. Ibrahim and Jalal have looked after us so well, we could not ask for anything more, from delicious breakfasts each morning, shopping trips, taxis and washing service, nothing has been too much trouble for them. Each morning we have been greeted by the sound of the orange juicer, fresh orange juice, traditional Moroccan soup, an array of breads and pastries, a wonderful start to each day.

The Medina is extensive, many lane ways, small little passages and thoroughfares, with the help of Ibrahim and Jalal we have been able to gain a little understanding of the beauty of Moroccan life.

The riad is owned by Sahib, also the owner of a very beautiful carpet shop. He has been a gracious host, also welcoming us with open arms. And of course, all of these men have been great friends of Karim's so we have felt very much at home.

This is Ibrahim's email address for anyone planning a trip to Fes, we hope one day some of our family and friends may travel this way to enjoy the magic of Morocco.

ibrahimelhajjami@gmail.com





The courtyard, open air from above with windows that are closed at night. Lovely yellow covered couches surround the walls, beautiful tiles and plaster work to admire as you relax and enjoy the ambience.




Our bedroom, beautiful room, maybe the bed was a little hard, but no real complaints here! Gorgeous furnishings everywhere, carpets and particularly the lights all make up the beauty of the place.


Breakfast in the morning, Olivia and I are ready to tuck in

Couscous Friday

Friday is a holy day in the Islam religion and we were all invited to couscous Friday, a tradition of Karim's family. Normally it is a small affair, Karim's family, 9 brothers and sisters and couscous prepared by his mother and sister. This time it was all the family and wedding guests. They prepared to huge plates of couscous, so much left over with the amazing abundance of food. We had a surprise in meeting Karim's father who normally works on Friday. Eating couscous is not an elegant affair, no plates or knives and forks. We had to learn the technique of rolling balls of couscous in our hands by Karim's father and then popping them into our mouths. We were covered in couscous, especially Bruce who had it dripping from his beard. A very delicious experience, and so wonderful to be caught up in more Moroccan traditions.




Bruce and Gayle, meeting Karim's parents.


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Morocco

Our flight to Morocco was fairly uneventful, only 2 hours and we arrived. An easy pass through customs and very helpful men in the airport to help us onto the train. Purchased a ticket through to Fes and only one change at the main train station, Gare Casa Voyageurs and we were on our way. The train journey, 4 hours through amazing countryside and interesting villages, so different to France. We arrived at Fes station, with our names written on a board by our driver, a friend of Karim's who took us to the old Medina. An experience in itself, much tooting of car horns and much chaos on the road. Arriving safely at the car park of the old Medina, Bruce and Gayle waiting for us. A cultural awakening as we walked through the Medina, colours and sounds so amazing, not sure where to look with so much to see. Arrival at the Riad, a beautiful courtyard of traditional tiles and wood work, so beautiful. Everyone we have met have been friends of Karim, the owner of the Riad and all the wonderful people working here. What an absolute treat for us to be able to be part of Phoebe and Karim's wedding and to be swept up within this incredible culture.


Our first morning in Morocco, awakened to the sound of the juicer, delicious fresh orange juice to enjoy and an incredible spread of food, bean soup, fresh breads and so much more. A choice of delicious mint tea or coffee all served by Brahim and Jalal, our wonderful hosts who have become incredibly important to us. Every whim is met, shopping, washing, a fresh juice or water. Whatever we need, it just happens! our first morning was spent on a tour with another friend of Karim's, Ali an official guide who took us around the Medina. So many lane ways, up and down tiny street, jumping to avoid the donkey and the cart squeezing through. No cars are in the Medina, there would be no room for them anyway! So much to see, so much history and cultural sites to be absorbed in, so much colour and beautiful patterns to admire. I think I love Morocco!








The Wood Museum



A view from top of the wood museum.




Wandering the streets and the lane ways.



So much beauty everywhere you look.





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Toulouse

We have been in Morocco now for 4 days and Toulouse seems so far away, culturally and visually. Suppose I need to write about Toulouse before I even try and attempt to tell the wonderful story of our time in Morocco. We arrived in Toulouse from Leran, wandered the city and after a trip on the little white train, a tourist train that travelled in and around the city we looked for an escape and booked a tour in the country for the following day.


After the fast pace of the city, it was lovely to enjoy the beautiful French countryside again. Our guide had excellent English and was able to tell us the history of the area. The two chalets that we visited were both perched on top of a hill, one nearly deserted the other with still quite a few people residing. Both with incredible history, it makes Australia so young!




We met another Frenchie along the way, very cute, but certainly not as friendly as our girl! A Frenchie with a lot to say, that is a lot of bark!



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Life in Leran

We have had a wonderful time with Lee-anne and John who have created a beautiful home and bed and breakfast in Leran near Toulouse in France. Luckily for us, John picked us up from the train station so that we didn't have to face the driving. We arrived at their home, to be treated to a lovely spacious room looking over their garden, filled with flowers and greenery, with chickens happily scratching away in their pen. We shared the dining room table with two guests from London the first night and were lucky to just have Lee- anne and John's company the following 2 nights. I had the joyful experience of being sous chef on the Friday in preparation for the arrival of Sandy and Dick and their friends on that day. I learnt that it takes a lot of work to run a bed and breakfast especially when trying to provide a lovely home with a relaxing pleasurable experience. John and Lee-anne make such a great team, each having their tasks to do and making sure everything runs perfectly.

Our first day was spent at their friend's house as they prepared a gite for rental. Unfortunately, Ross hurt his knee from traipsing up and down stairs but I enjoyed mowing the lawn with an electric lawn mower! Another lovely experience of enjoying the French countryside and hospitality. A delicious lunch of cheeses and bread with cider was enjoyed.



Front door of Chez Furness.



Our gorgeous spacious room with a lovely view of the garden from our window.




The chickens were being terrorised by a nasty flock of crows so a scarecrow was constructed. What pleasant and creative way of spending our time in France.

Another enjoyable day morning was spent at Miropeaux, a pretty and old French village near them. The day we left there was a market there as well, Lee- anne took us there on the way to Pamiers before we returned to Toulouse to continue on our journey. What a special time we had in Leran, finally able to see where Lee-anne and John have lived for the past few years, what an incredible experience to share with them even though it was such a very short visit. I could have stayed so much longer!


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Meeting Ross' Grandfather

We have had a wonderful stay in Belgium and are now with our friends, Lee- anne and John in Leran, France. Belgium was such an emotional and incredible experience with the village of Ypres completely ruined in the first world war and now rebuilt in the style of the original town. It does seem obvious that the village is rebuilt but it has become such a centre for the recognition of the war, not only with the Commonwealth troupes but also with the Germans. Part of our package from the Albion Hotel was two nights accommodation, a tour of the battlefields and a three course dinner at a local restaurant. The hotel was gorgeous, very classic with lovely gladiolies in beautiful vases everywhere.



Each night in Ypres the last post is held at 8.00pm. On our first night we were lucky to enjoy a beautiful school choir from Canada. Their incredible voices without musical instruments were very haunting and added to the poignant atmosphere of the service. Many different groups laid wreaths, army men and women, school groups and families coming to pay their respect.



The Menin Gate before the 8.00 pm service, a quiet place for reflection. At about 7.15, the crowds begin to gather. Luckily the Albion Hotel advised us to get there early to secure a place. We could not believe the size of the crowd that was there for both nights that we attended the ceremony of the last post.



The next day we went on the battlefields tour that was taken by a passionate English girl who has lived in the region for over 16 years. She was interested in all of her guests on the tour and made sure we all covered the areas we wanted to see. On our tour we had a New Zealand and a Canadian couple who were tracing the history of the war. The tour started with the explanation of the frontline, the Commonwealth and German armies were so close to each other and that the conflict lasted for over four years. She talked about life in the trenches and the use of gas, there was no glossing over in this tour, Jan explained how terrible the "the Great War" was. This photos shows the dug outs where the soldiers came in for medical treatment.


After this we visited many memorial sites for the different countries, New Zealand memorials are scattered around as the New Zealand government wanted their memorials built where the soldiers had fallen rather than altogether at the Menin Gate. 100,000 men from New Zealand went to war, out of population of 1,000,000, just over 30,000 returned. The statistics are shocking.

Part of the tour took us to Polygon Wood where Ross' grandfather was killed in action. Jan our tour guided gave us a poppy on a cross and recited the commemorative words for the returned soldiers. She was able to explain to us the conflict within the area and gave us some understanding of what Eric might have experienced in this terrible war.



The Australians who do not have a marked grave are recognised on the Menin Gate and this is where Ross' grandfather name appears, Eric Carter.
We visited him quite a few times over our stay, and did leave him with a poppy.



Our time, in Belgium was very emotional but we were able to still enjoy our time there, especially partaking in some rather delicious Blegium chocolate.


We also saw this wonderful suitcase in a shop window in Ypres, very hard to resist but absolutely no reason to buy it, other than it being just gorgeous!



We had an easy Air France flight to Toulouse, shuttle bus into the main train station and then a local train to arrive at Pamiers where John came to pick us up. Chez Furness will be the next blog entry, it is now time to relax enjoy the company of our wonderful friends in their very beautiful home.

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Location:Rue du Temple,Léran,France